By Amanda Wells
Photography by Greg Campbell
Three Delta families trek over to the hills for a week of fun, family, food and a generous dose of red dirt sprinkled in for good measure!
The Neshoba County Fairgrounds are located just outside of Philadelphia, Mississippi, nestled in the rolling red clay hills that are uniquely Neshoba. Inside the fairgrounds, on a sprawling plot of sixty acres, you’ll find colorful rows of eclectic cabins that come to life in late summer. It’s here that friends catch up, families reunite and tradition lives on.
The first fair was held in 1889 and was known as the Coldwater Fair. In 1889, a private corporation was organized and dubbed the Neshoba County Stock and Agricultural Fair Association, and the new fairgrounds were opened. Early on, the fair brought visitors from miles around, and families began camping there for the entirety of the festivities. A pavilion and hotel were soon built, and makeshift cabins began popping up. The shady oaks that surround Founder’s Square were planted in 1898.
The long-standing tradition of political speeches began in 1896 when Governor Anslem J. McLaurin took the stage. Since then, the Neshoba County Fair has solidified its place as one of the top political forums for local, state and national politicians. In fact, Ronald Reagan kicked off his 1980 campaign for president from the middle of Neshoba County at the fair, where he remarked, “I think you all know without my saying it that Nancy and I have never seen anything like this because there isn’t anything like this any place on earth.”
Many pack up and head to Philadelphia from the Delta to spend late July in this special place, including Sharon and Mike Boler of Greenwood. Mike, who grew up in nearby Union, used to come to the fair with his father, Buford, packing a sack lunch before the family built a cabin. As their family has grown, the fair has continued to be a beloved family tradition.
“Not only have I come for the last thirty-five years, but I’ve stayed the whole entire week,” laughs Sharon. Her mother- in-law Margean Boler is a big part of Sharon’s fair memories. “When my kids were little, it was like a vacation for me. Mike’s mother would cook everything and take care of my kids.” When Margean passed away suddenly, Sharon took the fair reigns. “The first year without her, I went and realized I didn’t appreciate all she did nearly enough. I cried the whole way home because I was so tired.” Sharon made sure she was more prepared the next year and has settled into a rhythm, creating memories for her children and grandchildren.
Visiting and rocking on the porch are punctuated by quick pop-ins to the cabin for a deep breath of cold air conditioning.
Food has always taken center stage at the Neshoba County Fair, where you’re sure to be beckoned into any cabin for a bite. After nibbles on sausages and funnel cakes along the midway, home cooking takes the cake. Many family fair traditions revolve around food. “Every Friday night, we have chicken spaghetti, French bread, salad and of course several desserts,” says Sharon. “On Saturday, we have every single fresh veggie you can name with pulled pork or ribs and fried chicken.”
With a long family fair history, Clarksdale native Cyndi Larson’s experience is chock full of tradition at cabin twelve on
Cleveland resident Emily Havens says that her memories of the fair begin with her stepfather Charley Therrell, the longstanding announcer of the beloved horse races. “My family started going to the fair in 1979 before my mom married Charley,” remembers Emily. “We started going as friends, and now we are officially family.” Emily’s favorite traditions include her stepbrother and stepsister Todd Therrell and Mary Ann Martin. “Each couple that goes has a day to cook, and we cook all three meals for that day,” she says. “We clean the cabin, and it works out so great because we get to relax the rest of the days.”
While the food and the fun are always top contenders, it’s really the fellowship that everyone keeps coming back for. “I love visiting with the people that I only see once a year,” says Sharon. “They’re our lifelong friends, and we get to sit and catch up all week long.”